Stone ruins of a royal citadel found in the northern Kruger National Park date back to between the 15th and 17th centuries. Archaeologists have recently excavated the tombs of an African king and queen who ruled here during the 16th century. They named her Queen Losha -- because she was buried with her hands placed under her cheeks in a position of great respect known as losha -- and him, King Ingwe - meaning leopard, because on the day his grave was found, a leopard was waiting as the excavating team returned to their vehicle.

The royal enclosure at Thulamela accommodated a thousand people. Beyond the walled citadel, the hillsides are dotted with collapsed walls and signs of dwellings which indicate that up to 2 000 people may have lived here.

There are also signs of lively trading. The people of Thulamela were skilled goldsmiths and their main currency was gold. This they traded, along with ivory, for glass beads and corn, with traders who came north of the Limpopo from what is today Mozambique. There is also evidence of contact with people from West Africa.

Tours take place daily (morning and afternoon). A maximum of 15 persons per tour. Bookings and payment at Sirheni bushveld camp, Shingwedzi and Punda Maria restcamps, and Pafuri gate.

Contact South African National Parks
Tel: (012) 343 1991

Other things to do:

Masorini Iron Age Museum
Near the Phalaborwa entrance to the Kruger National Park, this site was the centre of metal production for Mapungubwe during the 16th century. Masorini was also a Stone Age site. You can go on a guided tour of the reconstructed huts on the terraced hillside, see smelting furnaces, forges, crumbling ruins and a Later Stone Age site.
Contact SA National Parks on (012) 343 1991
E-Mail: reservations@parks-sa.co.za

Dzata Ruins

Near Louis Trichardt (on the R523 between Thohoyandou and Makhado), Dzata was once the flourishing capital of the Venda empire. Dzata is not as grand as Great Zimbabwe, but similar in layout and design, with stone-walled terraces and walkways, an interconnected series of huts and cattle kraals.
Contact Kuvona Cultural Tours on 082-4659303
E-mail: kuvona@mweb.co.za

Places to stay:

Punda Maria Camp

One of the oldest and smallest camps in the park. Old-fashioned bungalows with little stone verandahs are built in tiers on a hillside. It's self-catering, but there's a small shop and restaurant.
Tel: (012) 343-1991
E-mail: reservations@parks-sa.co.za

Bed-in-the Bush

Close to Phalaborwa, accommodation includes a self-catering house designed like a 21st-century African hut, and a beautifully restored farmhouse.
Tel: (015) 781-1139 or 083-6010946
E-mail: bushbed@lantic.net

Shiluvari Lakeside Lodge

Near Louis Trichardt, these thatched chalets offer sweeping views of the Albasini dam and Luonde mountains. There's a restaurant, swimming pool and evening boat cruises on the dam. From Shiluvari it's also an easy drive to Lake Fundudzi, home to the sacred burial grounds of the royal Venda clan.
Tel: (015) 556-3406
Fax: (015) 556-3413
E-mail: shiluvar@mweb.co.za